Buyer Guide To Overlockers

I am just learning, what are the functions I need to know about an overlocker?

Borrow fashion ideas, sure, but no way are you going to dress the same as everyone else. Your look must match your personality! To get it right, nothing beats creating it yourself, and an overlocker can help.

When buying an overlocker, it's essential to look for certain features that will suit your sewing needs. Overlockers are primarily used for finishing seams, creating professional-looking edges, and sewing stretch fabrics. We list the key functions and features users should know about before making a purchase. 

Presently have 58 different overlockers, plus 21 that can sew a cover stitch for sale, and have been selling online for over 25 years, hence, I do think we have some experience when it comes to overlockers and their abilities. Please use this buying guide as a reference. 

Number Of Threads

• Most common overlockers offer 3- or 4-thread stitching. Mid-range and advanced overlocker can edge with more or less threads.
• 2-Thread Overlock: Mid-range models can also use 2-threads for finer, delicate materials. It has a softer feel as it uses less thread.
• 3-Thread Overlock: Suitable for basic seam finishing and light fabrics. It’s a good choice for beginners or those on a budget.
• 4-Thread Overlock: Provides a stronger, more durable seam with extra stability. Ideal for both lightweight and medium-weight fabrics.
• 5-Thread Overlock: Adds a chain stitch for even stronger seams. Often used for heavy fabrics like denim or for sewing and finishing in one step.
• Switchable Between 2, 3, 4 Threads: Some machines offer the ability to switch between different thread setups, providing more versatility for different projects. 
• Overlockers have loopers that operate under the needle place, and they use thread. Typically, an overlocker will use only 2 or 3 needles at a time. 

Some Overlockers Can Also Sew A Cover Stitch

• These are called "combo" or "combination" models.  Some brands that have been around for years call these clever models, a Coverlock, or Huskylock.
• The addition of a cover stitch, can make the machine more complex, as it needs extra looper, threading guides and different needle positions.
• If you budget stretches, adding a cover stitch will give you more options while dressmaking, particularly on stretchy Jersey materials.
• Once setup to the desired function, they are reliable and robust, just as a regular overlock machine.

Differential Feed

• This feature adjusts the speed at which the fabric layers are fed through the machine, allowing you to sew stretchy, delicate, or heavy fabrics without puckering or stretching.
  It’s essential for sewing stretchy fabrics like knits and preventing waves or ripples on fabric edges.

Stitch Width and Length Adjustment

• Adjustable Stitch Width: Allows you to control how wide the overlock stitch is, which is important when working with different fabric types and thicknesses.
• Adjustable Stitch Length: Provides control over how tight or loose your stitches are, which is crucial for the appearance and durability of your seams.

Built-In Rolled Hem

• Most overlockers have a rolled hem function, which allows you to create narrow, professional-looking hems on lightweight fabrics like chiffon, organza, or silk. 
• A built-in rolled hem function is perfect for creating neat, narrow hems on lightweight fabrics like silk, chiffon, or organza.
• This feature is great for finishing delicate garments, napkins, or scarves.
• On some the user may need to swap a needle plate, while on others a simple push on a lever switches function to rolled hemming.

Ease of Threading

• Threading an overlocker can be tricky for beginners due to the multiple threads involved. However, many modern overlockers have colour-coded threading guides that make the process easier. Some higher-end models, have air-threading systems that automate the threading process, significantly reducing the complexity. 
• Colour-coded Threading Guides: These guides help simplify the threading process, which can be complicated on an overlocker.
• Automatic Threading Systems: Some higher-end machines have air threading or other automatic systems, making threading faster and less frustrating.
• Lookout for ones with tension release when the presser foot is lifter, this feature means you can pull the fabric, from beneath the presser foot with ease.
• Once threaded, you can simply, knott the new thread colour to the old one, and pull the thread through.

Free Arm for Sewing Tubular Items

• Some overlockers come with a free arm feature, which is useful for sewing circular items like pant legs. If you regularly sew garments, having a free arm on your overlocker can be a significant advantage.

• A free arm allows you to sew cuffs, sleeves, and other tubular pieces with ease. This is especially useful for garment sewing, or small projects.

Knife Blade Adjustment 

• An adjustable cutting knife allows you to control how much fabric is trimmed off the edge as the machine overlocks. This feature is useful for working with different fabric weights and seam allowances.
• Many allow you to disengage the blade to sew without cutting fabric. This is useful when you want to overlock edges without trimming, for example, when finishing seams that are already trimmed.

Presser Foot Pressure Adjustment

• Adjustable presser foot pressure ensures even feeding of different fabric types, preventing puckering in lightweight fabrics or uneven feeding in heavy fabrics.

Speed Control

• If you’re a beginner or need more control when sewing tricky fabrics, look for a machine with adjustable maximum speed settings, a DC motor or electronic foot control, which will offer better control at any speed.
• Overlockers are typically much faster than regular sewing machines, with many models capable of sewing up to 1,300-1,500 stitches per minute.

• Speed is one of the main advantages of using an overlocker, especially when finishing long seams or working on large projects.

Stitch Versatility

• Look for a machine that offers a variety of stitch options.
• Overlock Stitch: For finishing raw edges.
• Flatlock Stitch: For decorative seams or hemming stretch fabrics.
• Rolled Hem: For a narrow, clean hem finish on lightweight fabrics.
• Chain Stitch: Available on 5-thread machines for durable, strong seams.

Built-in Tension Control

• Some overlockers come with manual tension controls that allow you to adjust the tension of the threads based on the fabric type.
• Automatic tension adjustment simplifies this process and ensures balanced stitches.
• Some have very clever system with fully automatic thread tension control, they auto-adjust the tensions depending on the overlockers stitch settings. It is very useful to have.

Waste Tray

• Less mess, equals less time needed to tidy! A waste tray collects the fabric scraps trimmed off by the overlocker’s knife, keeping your workspace tidy and reducing cleanup time.

Thread Cutter

• A built-in thread cutter simplifies finishing seams, allowing you to quickly trim threads without needing scissors.

Multi-purpose Foot

• Some machines come with multi-purpose presser feet or allow you to use different feet (such as a blind hem foot or piping foot), increasing the versatility of your overlocker.

Noise and Vibration Levels

• Some overlockers can be noisy or cause a lot of vibration. Look for reviews or test machines for quiet operation if this is a concern, especially if you'll be sewing for long periods.

LED Lighting

• Good lighting around the sewing area can be helpful when working with detailed or dark-colored projects.
• LED lights are often preferred for their day-light brightness and longevity.
• Most modern overlockers come with LED lights that illuminate the sewing area. This can be especially helpful when working with darker fabrics or intricate stitching. If lighting is a priority, make sure to check that the model you choose has a good-quality, multiple bright lights.

Portability

• If you plan to move your machine around, consider its size and weight. Some overlockers are heavier due to additional features, so make sure it’s portable if needed.

Accessories

• Check if the machine comes with essential accessories such as extra needles, tweezers, a lint brush, and different feet.
• Some overlockers also include specialty attachments like a gathering foot or elastic attaching foot.
• An additional sewing rest can come in handy when overlocking larger projects, look out for an included extension table.

• Common accessories include:
  Extra needles
  Tweezers for threading
  A lint brush for cleaning
  Screwdrivers for adjustments
  A waste catcher for trimmed fabric
  Additional feet (like a blind hem foot or gathering foot) Higher-end machines may come with more specialty accessories.

Price and Budget

• Overlockers vary greatly in price depending on their features. Basic 3- or 4-thread models are typically more affordable, while higher-end models with more threads, automatic threading, cover stitch option and extra features will be more expensive.

• Entry-level models: £200 to £400, ideal for beginners or home sewists. Paying a little more you will gain semi-automatic looper threader.

• Mid-range models: £400 to £800, often with more features like differential feed, rolled hem capabilities, and multiple thread options. Controlable power to the needles using a DC motor.

• High-end models: £800 to £1500 or more, often include advanced features like air threading, auto-tension settings, cover stitch and further decrotive stitching options. Higher quality that will run faster and smoother.

• Adding the ability to sew a cover stitch, these combined overlocker/cover stitch models are a little more complex to set up, and do cost a little more, but if your budget can be stretch, they give you two machines in one. As your sewing skills enhance, could save you money in the long run, with gain professional sewing results to boot.

Brand and After Sale Service

• Choosing a reputable brand like Baby Lock, Brother, Janome, Juki, Pfaff, Husqvarna or Bernette can ensure better quality and longevity. We offer a choice of over 79 different overlock/cover stitch machines.
• Ensure the machine comes with a long warranty. We are confident in the reliability of the brands we sell and can offer an extension of the warranty period.
• Check the availability of customer service and authorised repairs. All repairs and servicing are done in-house by our trained engineers.

By considering these functions, you can find an overlocker that suits your sewing projects, whether you’re focusing on basic seam finishes, stretch fabrics, or more advanced garment construction. Please don't forget, you can contact us at any time if you have any further questions.