What are the stitches a cover stitch machine can sew?

A sewing machine that can sew a cover hem is also known as a cover stitch machine. It is a specialised type of sewing machine, designed specifically for creating strong professional-looking hems, top-stitching and decorative stitching on garments, particularly on stretch fabrics. It is very different from a standard sewing or overlock stitch.

What is a cover stitch? We have already explained the difference between a cover stitch and overlocker, which is important to know. A cover stitch machine can sew using 1, 2 or 3 needles and loopers to form a neat joining stitch that that can stretch with the stretchiest of materials, EG Lycra. The image below shows some sample stitches. 

Stitch Types:

If you're looking to buy a cover stitch machine for the first time, it may be worth learning about the different models available and the stitch types they can sew.

• Double cover stitcher model - Is a fully blown cover stitch machine with limited capabilities. It can sew double cover stitch and accept many additional attachments.
• Triple cover stitcher model - A mid-range cover stitch machine., with all the bells and whistles, it offers double and triple cover stitch, as well as additional attachments that may only be available to models that can sew a triple cover stitch.
• Double-sided top cover stitch, with decorative top stitching capabilities - Only available on higher-end models, as they need an additional top looper to output this clever stitch. It looks like a cover stitch on the bottom as usual, but it also has a top cover stitch weave. You can use decorative threads to create very fancy, custom to stitching effects.
• Straight: Most can sew a type of straight line sewing, similar to a regular sewing machine. However, it is called a chain stitch, and is not like a lock stitch of the sewing machine.

Double-sided top cover stitches:

The primary difference between a cover stitch and a double-sided top cover stitch lies in their stitch formation and appearance. A double-sided top cover stitch, creates interlocking stitches on both the top and bottom sides of the fabric, as the image below shows. This creates a symmetrical looking, professional finish on both sides, making it ideal for projects where both sides of the hem or seam are visible. It adds the extra feeling of a high-end, quality sewn items. This stitch provides extra durability and a neat appearance. Again, it is often used in sportswear, activewear, and other garments where the interior needs to look as finished as the exterior.

What can I sew with my new cover stitch machine? Using the cover stitch, it is possible to insert zips, sew perfectly parallel topstitching lines, sew a complete garment, for example a ready to wear sweatshirt. T-shirts, tops, underwear, straps, pants, leggings and sports wear are prime examples of its ability to construct garments.  The image below shows some lovely examples of where the cover stitch can be used while making garments. 

The main applications are;

• Hemming: Especially useful for hemming knit garments such as T-shirts, activewear, Lycra and other stretchy fabrics where a flexible, durable hem is needed.
• Topstitching: Ideal for decorative topstitching on garments, adding a professional finish.
• Joining: Attaching pieces together, e.g. a ribbed neck to the garment, adding elastic cuffs to sleeves.
• Attaching: Braid, lace or ribbon as a decorative feature.
• Adding Elastic: Perfect for sewing elastic into garments while maintaining stretch and recovery. 
• Professional Finish: Creates a finish very much like that found on commercially made garments, especially in ready-to-wear knitwear. Provides strong and durable hems and seams that withstand wear and washing. 
• Basting: Use the chain stitch to temporally hold fabric layers together. If a chain stitch is not tied in at the start and end, it can very easily be pulled out.

There are many accessories and attachments available to enhance its capabilities, for example attachments to sew belt loops or bag and shoulder straps. Another attachment I love to use is the bias binder attacher and the edge fold binder, both are really useful whilst creating garments. It can also sew narrow or wide coverstitch as well as double or triple cover stitching.
 

Whether you need a double or triple coverstitch depends on the type of projects you are stitching and the specific stitch finishes you desire for your garment construction. It can give you a perfect professional result when used, even by a beginner dressmaker.

Double Coverstitch:

Features:

• Stitches: Uses two needles and one looper to create two parallel rows of straight stitches on the top side and a serger-like stitch on the bottom side.
• Adjustability: Typically offers options for narrow and wide coverstitches.
• Common Uses: Ideal for hemming, topstitching and attaching elastic, especially in knitted garments.

Advantages:

• Simplicity: Easier to thread and use compared to a triple coverstitch machine.
• Versatility: Suitable for most hemming and topstitching needs, especially in home sewing and small-scale garment production.
• Sufficient for most standard hemming. 
• Simple decorative stitching option and basic garment construction. 
• Generally more affordable. 

Choose this if you’re looking for a machine that is easy to use and versatile enough for most hemming and topstitching tasks. Perfect for users with a limited budget. 

Triple Coverstitch: 

Features:

• Stitches: Uses three needles and one looper to create three parallel rows of straight stitches on the top side and a more complex serger-like stitch on the bottom side.
• Strength: Provides a stronger and more decorative stitch due to the additional needle.
• Common Uses: Ideal for heavy-duty hemming, decorative stitching and providing extra strength to seams. Often used in sportswear, activewear and garments that require high stretch and durability.

Advantages:

• The additional needle provides a stronger stitch, making it more suitable for garments that undergo a lot of stress or stretching.
• Offers more decorative stitching options with the triple-row appearance.
• Better for projects that require extra strength. 
• More complex to thread and use...suited for more experienced sewers. 
• Usually more expensive due to the additional needle and complexity of stitch selections.

Choose this type of machine if you need something that can handle heavy-duty projects and requires stronger seams, or if you’re aiming for more decorative stitching options. Consider your sewing needs, project types and skill level to make the best choice for your situation. We offer advice and all types of coverlock combination and cover stitch models and possibly have the greatest choice available, explore the full range from this page. They are not difficult to use and take less threading than overlockers.